Infinity Machine and Design Sub Tank Kits

The Stainless tanks are self draining and no maintenance if they are mounted correctly. The control valves need to point down to the ground with the hose going into the bottom side of the tank.

The control valves have 10 turns. Backed all the way out they are fully open. Start with this position first to fully feel what Infinity Subtanks do. The first 3 turns in do nothing at all. 7 turns in is approximately 1 half of the flow of fully open. When the valve is closed the tanks are in the off position. At this point your forks will function as if there are no sub tanks attached to them.

The Air Bleeds can be used at any time. You should push them at the start of every ride to vent excess pressure in your forks. The control valves need to be at least a little bit open for these to function.

The Hose fittings are a high flowing/ low profile 1/8 NPT straight fitting. They have a push fit connection. Insert the Hose into the fitting about 3/8" until it stops. These fittings work like a Chinese finger trap the harder you pull the harder they grab. To release the hose push down firmly on the Plastic ring on the fitting and pull out the hose. If the hose gets stuck push it in further then try again.

The Hose can be cut to fit your application. They are supplied to you with extra length on each hose. They can be cut with sharp scissors, a razor blade or dikes. Cut it nice and straight and make sure there are no burs. If there are get something sharper. Burs can destroy the seal in the fittings.

Clamping the tanks onto your forks is easy with the Infinity Billet Clamps. Mount the tanks with the control valves pointing down and the air bleeds up. Infinity subtanks can also be mounted with hose clamps. This works fine but doesn't give you as many mounting options.

Basic Kit Install
	Cut some old inner tube from a Bicycle or Dirt bike into a 3 or 4 inch strip. This helps pad your fork and subtank and helps hold them in place.
	Get some big 4 inch hose clamps from an auto parts store or maybe you have some hiding in your garage. Put the inner tube between the tank and the fork leg and tighten the hose clamp around to secure to the forks. The Control Valves need to point down to the ground. If they are mounted up side down the tanks will not self drain. The hose can be cut with scissors to fit how you want it to. Nice flowing lines work best. Don't kink your hose!
	Install your number plate or light. Make sure there is no interference with anything. Turn the bars side to side to check.
	Finished. Go for a ride!!!

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No-Drill Fittings for KTMs
Here is the set up for the No-drill fittings. These fittings are for KTMs with preload adustable forkcaps and the new Twin Chamber WP forks on the SX's and XC's. These fittings have a 4mm thread with a .07" hole through it. The downside is these flow less than the big 1/8NPT fittings and they are fragile because of their size.. But the upside is they are painless to install and still work very well. Oil heights do not need to be raised as much with these fittings. Most benefit from 20cc's or so per leg. Contact Infinity Machine for oil heights for your riding conditions.
	The hose is bonded into these stainless fittings. These are not push fit connectors. Do not try to remove the hose! The fittings, like aftermarket bleeder valves seal with an o-ring. The 4mm thread is small and the hole for air flow is as big as possible. Becareful when tightening. Do not over torque. Snug is good. The oring will take care of the sealing.
	Use zip tyes to strain relieve the hoses to your handlebars. The fittings can be in front or behind your bars, whichever suits your bike best. But they should be close to the bars and to toward the inside for max protection. Installed this way the small fittings are protected from branches and from crashes. It also prevents the fittings from ever coming loose. Leave yourself a little slack in the lines so you can re-cut it at some other time. If you leave no slack you will not be able to reposition or get a fresh section of hose in the lower fittings.

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1/8-27 NPT Drill and Tap This is the standard drill and tap procedure needed for most bikes
	Tools needed: 11/32 drill 1/8 NPT tap tap handle or a 3/8 12 point socket Hand Drill WD-40 or any other oil Thin 7/8 or 22mm wrench for fork cap removal
	Take the fork Caps off of your bike. On a KTM you need a thin wrench to fit on the jam nut. A 7/8 or a 22mm wrench ground down works great. This one is made from a scrap of aluminum.
	Place the fork cap in a vise like this. Hold the cap on the top and the bottom. DO NOT CLAMP ON THE THREADS! Clamp it tight. There is some pretty good twisting force when you drill through the bleed hole.
	Now carefully drill straight through the bleed hole on the fork cap. Hang on tight, as the drill pops through the back of the cap it wants to twist the drill. I have found the best way is a medium speed and light pressure while drilling. Go as straight as possible.
	After the hole is drilled lube the tap with cutting oil, WD40, triflow. or even motor oil. Just make sure you use some oil or you will tear the threads instead of cutting them. Start as straight as possible. Go in 2 turns then back the tap out and clean the chips off the tap. Repeat this until you get a nice treaded hole. Do not thread the entire NPT tapered tap into the hole. You don't need to run the tap all the way through. Take your time. Do not skip backing the tap out and cleaning the chips off.
	Here is a finished hole.
	Check your thread depth with your fork cap fitting. It should thread down at least 2 turns before it is getting very tight. If it is too tight tap the hole deeper. You are finished taping your caps. Put your fork caps back on the bike install your 1/8 NPT fork cap fittings and your subtank kit. Go for a ride!

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